Toledo

One of the most famous day trips from Madrid is a visit to Toledo, the former capital of the Spanish Empire. Toledo is a very small city (note map) surrounded by protective, old stone walls and is actually a UNESCO World Heritage site due to its extensive monuments and cultural importance. One of the most striking things about Toledo is that is has several monasteries, a cathedral, synagogues, and a mosque. What has remained of the city represents the presence and coexistence of the three religions far back in Spain's history and is known as La Covivencia. Toledo had a large Muladi population (Muslims of Iberian descent) during its celebrated golden age and its conquest by the Christians served as a symbol of the Chrisitan and Moorish struggles. Much of its Moorish culture was preserved, including libraries and craftwork, most  famously 'la damasquinado'. The name refers to Syria's city of Damasco an it is a type of craft work that works gold into a black iron or steel. I remember admiring "Oro de Toledo" years ago when my mom would buy it for gifts. Naturally, when I realized that I was suddenly in the city that my mom had once mentioned was known for this type of "gold," I immediately bought myself two pairs of earrings.

While I found Toledo to be extremely touristy and condensed into a small space, the day trip (you really only need an afternoon... 4-5 hours is sufficient) is a much appreciated break from the chaos and bustle of Madrid... which after a few months of living in the city becomes something somewhat necessary. Well, I hope you enjoyed the mini history lesson, now for pictures! Oh, and fun fact: El Greco is from Toledo!

A Walk Through Madrid

Jardines Real

El Palacio Real

Fruit Stand in Mercado San Miguel

Plaza Mayor

Oldest Chocolateria, San Gines

Parque del Retiro

Picnics in Retiro

El Prado: Las Meninas, Velazquez

Estadio Santiago Bernabeu

Iker Casillas, Real Madrid

RIP Austin Bice

My thoughts and prayers are with your family and friends Austin.

http://www.elpais.com/articulo/espana/autopsia/determinara/hoy/Austin/Bice/murio/despues/caer/Manzanares/elpepuesp/20110309elpepunac_4/Tes

Carnaval en Cadiz

I feel like my weekend in Cadiz needs a few disclaimers:
1. I went with in an organized group, EuropeanVibe, which is very unlike me and not my usual way of doing things. It was all Americans, but since I went with my Puerto Rican friend Giovanna, I was on the Puerto Rican bus and social circle... far more exciting.
2. It was a 7+ hour bus ride and our hotel was 30 minutes outside of the city, so in reality did we see much of Cadiz? No, not at all.
3. Carnaval is a week long event, with parades and celebrations and shows and events. I was there one night, so obviously what I saw was very limited to what exists, but I enjoyed 'el botellon' nonetheless.
4. Sometimes its nice to be taken care of. By this I mean, it was relaxing to go somewhere and be with friends, without a worry about where to go, how to get there, or safety concerns.

So what did I learn?
1. The male sex, no matter where in the world, genuinely shares an interest in dressing up like women. I saw many, many different costumes, but the majority revolved around men dressed in some type of dress or female character. Men just love the idea of having boobs-- like they say, you want what you can't (well, don't) have.
2. I need to go back to Cadiz. I saw water and my heart leaped. But there was water on both sides, I looked to me left, and there was ocean at the end of the alley, and I looked to the right and in the distance there was ocean too. Now that, is what I like to see.
3. I have more fun with Puerto Ricans than I do with Americans.
4. Cigarettes are very, very bad for you.
5. People's eyes light up when you say you're from San Francisco, and I mean it. Spaniards react differently to San Francisco than they do to Los Angeles, NYC, or Chicago.

Lisboa, Portugal

I had Monday off this week so I took advantage of the long weekend and took a quick trip to Lisbon, Portugal, the western-most European city. While Lisbon is a major port city, it didn't feel nearly as overwhelmingly congested with tourists as the rest of the European capitals. We stayed at the Oasis Backpacker's Mansion hostel, right near the water of the river and I thoroughly enjoyed walked on the narrow cobblestone streets that reminded me of San Francisco with so many ups and downs covered in tram tracks. In the barrio we stayed the streets were far more relaxed, which was a nice change from the chaos of Madrid.

On Saturday morning (and in the rain) we made our way to Belem to see the Monestery, the Tower, and the Monument of Discoveries. This is where Vasco de Gama, Magellen and other 15th century Portuguese explorers set off to sea, mostly under mandate from Henry the Navigator. We admired the bridge, that looks identical to San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge, and the huge Jesus statue that overlooks the city from across the river. (Apparently there is the same statue in Brazil?) After a long nap we had a nice dinner in the more touristy cobblestone pathways by the downtown plaza and went out to bar hop in the infamous barrio of Baixa Alto. The cobblestone alleyways are packed with people on the weekends, make it hard to walk between bars. In Portugal you can drink in public and bars provide plastic cups to make bar hopping even easier. It reminded me of the bar scene in Hong Kong, everyone outside, socializing, drinking, and well, speaking Portuguese.

I really like the sound of people speaking Portuguese and my interest in learning the language has increased significantly, especially knowing that it would allow me to travel or work in Brazil! I had a fairly easy time understanding people and could have a conversation with someone as I spoke Spanish, but apparently many of the younger Portuguese prefer to speak in English with Americans rather than Spanish for nationalistic reasons.

On Sunday we explored the Moorish area of Alfama and pranced around the Castle of St. Jordi. I admired views from the top, particularly noting the different colors of all the buildings and apartments-- yellow, pink, blue, light green... I like the colors, it gives the city personality... and makes me happy.

Madrid: Very First Impressions

snow on train to Madrid

I've been in Madrid exactly a week, and while I haven't seen too much (I've been working full time), I thought it would be valuable to note some of my initial impressions (more like comparisons) while the city is still very new to me. I must note that I feel truly welcome in my new home and am beyond grateful for the next chapter of my travels in this city.

1. Madrid is much bigger than Barcelona. Madrid has the space to grow and expand, whereas Barcelona is constrained by the ocean and mountains.

The Spanish flag? Not a common
site in Catalunya....

2. There are a lot more people. Of course, no where near the level of crowds I experienced in China, but there are a lot more people in the parks, plazas, out for tapas and beers, etc.

3. Things are slightly larger--- Kapital, a club famous among visitors, is seven stories.... while Barcelona's Razzmatazz is only 4 floors.

4. It's much drier in Madrid. Apparently its colder as well, but since it's less humid I really haven't noticed it as much.

5. Parks! Madrid has many large parks full of fountains and trees. I love it... Barcelona is mostly pavement.

A WHITE taxi?!
(Barcelona's are black/yellow)

6. Tapas! In Madrid (and many Spanish cities) you get a tapa when you order a beer or drink at a bar... Not common in Barcelona.

7. Spanish is the language spoken here--no Catalan.

8. Apartment buildings have "porteros". I can't stay everyone has one, but most that I have been to thus far have a 'doorman' that opens the door for the residents, maintains the stairwell and mail slots, deals with electricity and plumbing and assists residents. He usually lives downstairs in a small residence with his family.

9. Real Madrid and Atletico Madrid. Apparently Franco once used Real Madrid as a huge public affairs tool to increase national pride. Their write jersey's represent "purity", as in pure Spaniards... I prefer Barca's Blue and Red stripes myself.....

10. There's no ocean... I need a "Madridoneta"!! (You probably didn't understand that if you've never heard of Barceloneta)

Parque del Retiro

Bottom Floor of Kapital